. Zac Poulton

The Haston Line

2012-02-19T21:20:00.003Z

Campbell West on Honey Pot (IV 6) from earlier in the year - slightly less rime today but very similar conditions - forgot my camera :(

This weekend I've been working for Glenmore Lodge on an Introduction to Winter Climbing. After yesterdays windfest and the monsoon forecast for the next few days today was a quick glimpse of what winter should be. The cloud cleared ahead of us to reveal well rimed crags as we headed into Coire An t-Sneachda. Today was the perfect oppurtunity to introduce the team to the delights of mixed climbing. Plan A was Hidden Chimney (II/III), plan B was Left Edge (I/II) and plan C was The Haston Line (III 4). With a traffic jam forming at the foot of the Slant and more climbers arriving all the time we accepted the challenge and went for plan C. The Haston Line proved a pretty stern test for their first experience of mixed climbing but 4 pitches later we were pulling onto the plateau feeling very pleased with ourselves. The route was in great condition with 2 distinct cruxes and plenty of enjoyable climbing in between.
The corrie was very busy with teams on the Message (IV 6), The Slant (I), Hidden Chimney (II/III), Left Edge (I/II), Original route (IV 5), Invernookie (III 4) & Fiaciall Couloir (II/III).

Cairngorm tans!

2012-02-18T18:37:00.004Z

Good ice in Aladdin's Couloir (I)

This weekend I'm working for Glenmore Lodge on an Introduction to Winter Climbing course. The weather forecast was particularly spectacular with snow, storm force winds and a risk of lightning to contend with. We headed into Coire An t-Sneachda where the crags were briefly illuminated in front of us by a burst of sunshine. However as we approached Aladdin's Couloir (I) the wind increased and the cloud dropped giving everyone a full taste of winter. The ice in the narrows is in great shape offering approximately 30' of grade II. We were blown up the rest of the gully by a very strong updraft which had stripped the snow back to the old neve. Topping out on to the plateau the wind was gusting around 70mph which made reaching the top of the Goat Track a good challenge. The descent in to the updraft coming from the corrie was completed blind due to iced goggles but things had eased significantly by the time we reached the MRT stretcher box for a spot of lunch. The walk out was almost pleasant as the wind died away and as we dropped out of the cloud we were greeted by a winter wonderland with a covering of snow down to Aviemore.
The new snow has been driven in on strong north westerlies and there's plenty of pockets of soft slab around with some cross loading on the Goat Track area. Drifts were knee deep on the walk out and there's a good couple of inches at the Lodge but any exposed areas are still scoured back to the old refrozen snow. Plenty of Cairngorm tans in the Lodge bar tonight!

The view as we dropped out of the cloud!

Friday night film - BMC International Meet

2012-02-17T17:00:00.001Z

BMC INTERNATIONAL MEET 2012 from ReelTime Adventure on Vimeo.

'Winter' Navigation!

2012-02-16T19:42:00.006Z

Stunning spring like weather!

Today I've been working for Jagged Globe on an Introductory Winter Mountaineering course. The team had had a big day out on Ben Nevis yesterday and there were a few tired legs so we opted for a couple of hours in the classroom revisiting many of the navigation techniques they'd employed yesterday. The early morning rain soon cleared and we drove up through Glencoe to the edge of Rannoch Mor and the West Highland Way path to Kinlochleven. These lower hills gave us some challenging navigation as well as some pockets of snow for a bit of step cutting.
Looking across to the southern slopes of the Mamores the mild weather had stripped much of the snow but there's still plenty to be done in the usual north facing corries (Ben Nevis, Stob Coire Nan Lochan, Aonach Mor etc). Back on the path we descended to Kinlochleven and a mug of coffee in the Ice Factor.

The basic slash for cutting steps in descent

More advanced descending but pretty unstable in windy conditions

Squalls and sunshine descending into Kinlochleven

Boomerang Gully

2012-02-14T21:30:00.005Z

Harder variations on mixed ground in Boomerang Gully (II)

Today I'm working for Jagged Globe on a winter mountaineering course. The guys had been out on Monday on Aonach Mor looking at the huge variety of skills required to operate in the winter environment so today was all about putting it in context. With a windy but dry forecast and very stable snow we headed up to Stob Coire Nan Lochan to have an adventure in a gully. We opted for Boomerang Gully which gives a great grade II experience right to the summit with plenty of variation for getting on to harder mixed ground on the ribs either side. The wind died totally on the summit for a great lunch spot before we descended via an abseil into Broad Gully.

Enjoying mixed ground

An exposed spot for a break but lacking a view today

Another Jagged Globe team belayed in the depths of Boomerang Gully

A soggy Aonach Eagach

2012-02-10T21:41:00.004Z

The final Munro on the Aonach Eagach traverse

Friday night film - Alpine Climbing

2012-02-10T17:00:00.000Z

Stob Ban - North Buttress East Ridge

2012-02-09T18:54:00.008Z

Amazing weather on Stob Ban's North Buttress East Ridge (III)

A brocken spectra in front of the Ben

Topping out in to the sun on the crux chimney

Cloud inversion from Stob Ban with Ben Nevis in the background

Wind stops play in the Gorms

2012-02-08T18:43:00.004Z

Snow swirling across Aladdin's Buttress in Coire An t-Sneachda

Sron Na Larig

2012-02-07T21:45:00.008Z

The Sron Na Larig ridge

Eyeing up the start of the difficulties

Summiting Glencoe's version of the Great Tower

Glen Etive

Descending in the sunshine

Descending back in to Glen Eilde

Number 3 Gully Buttress

2012-02-06T20:45:00.014Z

A stunning day to be walking into the Ben

Alpine conditions on the traverse into Coire Na Ciste

2nd pitch of No 3 Gully Buttress

Jude on the exposed upper ramp

Reaching the sunlight at the top of No 3 Gully Buttress (III)

The final tricky moves to the plateau

A full moon rising with a climber on the great tower of Tower Ridge

The top of Number 4 gully with a good slot on the cornice

Stunning sunset over Loch Linne

Golden Oldie

2012-02-05T18:48:00.006Z

Sue enjoying the security of her new axes!

This week I'm out climbing with regulars Sue & Jude. With some new sharp climbing axes to play with we headed up to the west face of Aonach Mor for the classic grade II Golden Oldie. However 2 pairs of crampons between 3 did increase the challenge somewhat! There were a couple of other teams enjoying the ridges which were holding a surprising amount of snow which made climbing pretty time consuming but we timed it well arriving back at the top station just in time for the last gondola.

Scott Kirkhope's team digging their way Western Rib (III)

Lots of deep snow to play with...

Friday night film - Yosemite Free Climbing

2012-02-03T17:00:00.000Z

Mayan Smith-Gobat on Salathe from Five Ten on Vimeo.

Blencathra Ski Touring

2012-02-02T18:00:00.017Z

North Buttress on the Buachaille

2012-01-31T23:56:00.012Z

Great day in Comb Gully

2012-01-30T22:22:00.011Z

More wind on Morwind

2012-01-29T21:30:00.004Z

No 3 Gully Buttress

2012-01-28T20:36:00.008Z

Friday night film - Yosemite time lapse

2012-01-27T17:00:00.001Z

Late climbing course availability...

2012-01-24T22:30:00.002Z

Smith's Route (V 5) on Ben Nevis

Due to a late cancellation I now have one space on a Scottish winter climbing course for all or part of 28th Jan - 1st Feb. An opportunity to follow climbs up to grade V or to improve your own leading at grades III - V. We hope to follow the conditions so could be climbing on the Ben, Creag Meagaidh or in the Cairngorms.

I also have space on a weeks guided climbing, (Gr III-V) on the 5th - 9th March based on the West Coast. Please get in touch if you'd like more details - info@mountain-zac.co.uk

Cairngorm conditions improving...

2012-01-22T18:25:00.004Z

Searching for our avalanche victim!

This was the second day of a Glenmore Lodge MCoS Student Winter Skills program. After the battle with the wind and spindrift yesterday, things had settled down as we navigated our way in to Coire An t-Sneachda. We headed up to the area below the Mess of Pottage looking for snow and finding plenty behind the moraine ridge. Following on from yesterdays introduction to avalanches we were able to identify a number of layers in the soft windslab but nothing wanted to shear without a lot of effort. Even the group jumping on the cornice failed to trigger a slide. With perfect snow for digging we then focused on emergency snow shelters with everyone managing to get themselves tucked away within 30 minutes.
Up on the crags there was a lot more rime and plenty of folk on the mixed lines. Pot of Gold (V 6), The Haston Line (III 4), Hidden Chimney Direct (IV 5), The Hybrid (IV 5), Original Route (IV 5), Fingers Ridge (IV 4), The Runnel (II) and Stirling Bomber (V 7) were all climbed while over in Coire an Lochain Deep Throat (V 6), Savage Slit(V 6) and The Vicar (VII 8) all saw ascents.

Digging emergency snow shelters

A rather snug entrance to a snow hole.

The dream team!

Walking out of the Corries at the end of the day

Wild & Woolly in the Cairngorms.

2012-01-21T18:02:00.007Z

Classic Scottish winter mountaineering!

This weekend I'm working for Glenmore Lodge on a MCoS Student Winter Skills program. This is a great initiative which offers subsidised training to those who have historically been a high risk group. The weather forecast was pretty grim with 100mph gusts forecast for the plateau so we headed up in to Coire Cas to have a look at the basics. The walk in was very pleasant with bursts of sunshine but above us we could see plenty of snow being moved around on very strong westerlies. There is still very little snow in general so we and a number of other teams were all heading for the old neve in the lee of the ridge. The winds significantly increased as we geared up quickly reducing visability to a few meters but the group persevered and through the medium of sign language we were able to look at footwork, step cutting, using crampons, self belay and ice axe arrest. The ski area reported 60mph winds with gusts of 90 and quickly shut for the day. However our biggest challenge was walking back to the carpark, directly into the driving snow. I suspect most of the group will be shopping for goggles tonight! Back at the Lodge for tea and cake we were able to chat through everything that had gone on and assess the effectiveness of their systems and equipment. Tomorrow's looking a wee bit calmer but should still be pretty challenging.

Having a look at the snowpack prior to this evenings avalanche lecture

Cairngorms update

2012-01-20T19:57:00.006Z

An almost complete 'Runnel' in Coire An t-Sneachda

Despite yesterdays heavy snow the Cairngorms were still looking fairly bare today with the strong winds probably to blame. The skiing was much improved from the last few days but the Northern Corries were still predominantly black and didn't offer many options. The Mess of Pottage had rimed up in the westerly winds and there were teams on Droidless, Hidden Chimney and a Hybrid / Melting Pot combo.

A black looking Coire An t-Sneachda

A whiter looking Coire Nan Lochain with a couple of folk on the plateau

Friday night film - Nanga Parbat

2012-01-20T17:00:00.001Z

Loch Einich

2012-01-19T18:23:00.006Z

The crags of Gleann Einich on Sgor Gaoith

Today I've been working for Climb 365 on a winter mountaineering course. With three big days in his legs already Robert opted for an exploratory walk through Rothiemurchus forest and up towards Loch Einich. This wild and remote corrie is rarely visited and we didn't see a soul all day. The strong westerlies were blowing plenty of snow around on the higher ground and large cornices were forming along Sgor Gaoith but we were sheltered from the worst of the weather until after lunch. There were plenty of red deer and grouse in evidence highlighted by plenty of sunshine. However as we turned for home at the head of the loch the wind got up and heavy snow began to fall reducing the visability to 40m. Our footsteps from earlier in the day were soon covered but the good path is easy to follow. Back in Aviemore it continued to snow on and off for the rest of the evening, a good sign for the next few days.

A beach walk! - circumnavigating Loch Einich

Loch Einich

The view from the head of Loch Einich

Trail Runner photoshoot!

2012-01-16T19:23:00.003Z

Amazing light on Skiddaw just before sunset

The stunning weather continued back in the Lakes where I spent the day with Trail Runner magazine and photographer Stuart Holmes on Latrigg getting some shots for forthcoming issues. Not my normal Monday but a very interesting day (and good interval training with plenty of short sprints for the camera!)

Epicentre's Steve Ashworth has also made good use of this weekends weather with a quick winter Bob Graham Round.

Trail Runners's Claire Maxted and I enjoying perfect running conditions

An Intro to Ice & Mixed

2012-01-15T17:15:00.005Z

Enjoying a wee pitch of grade III ice

For the final morning of their 3 day course the students and I headed back in to Coire An t-Sneachda armed with climbing tools. The area above the Flat Ice lends itself to top roping a number of short lines on ice and rock at around III-IV. The weather was perfect again giving my group a very false idea of what Scottish winter mountaineering is like but it did allow us to experiment with winter climbing with plenty of opportunity for feedback and development. Today I was working for the University of Cumbria.

Cranking a few layback moves on solid axe torques

Good footwork on a steep bulge of ice

An alpine Cairngorm plateau...

2012-01-14T21:45:00.009Z

Climbing an icy 0.5 Gully with Cairngorm in the background

With a strong team we carried on where we left off with a solo ascent of 0.5 Gully in icy conditions. Having shown the students footage of Ueli Steck on his record Eiger Norwand speed solo the night before it proved to be a very quick ascent! The weather was absolutely stunning on the plateau and we spent a few hours enjoying the sun as we looked at bucket seats, buried axe belays, dynamic belaying and all the other fundamental building blocks for winter climbing. With a spectacular sunset in store we finished by paying a quick visit to the summit of Cairngorm. Today I was working for the University of Cumbria.

A wee rest before the rocky exit slopes

Topping out into the sunshine on 0.5 Gully

Building a buried axe belay

An ungainly top tip to get the length of your anchor rope right first time!

Traditional mountaineering skills and a solid foundation for winter climbing

A well rimed weather station on the top of Cairngorm

The Cairngorm weather instruments which come out every 30 minutes

Sunset from the summit of Cairngorm

High Pressure Winter Mountaineering!

2012-01-13T19:23:00.002Z

Teamwork to polish the slide for ice axe arrest practice!

I'm currently working for the University of Cumbria of a Scottish Winter Mountaineering course based in the Cairngorms. With a great forecast but limited snow cover we headed in to Coire Nan Lochain to explore the basic skills of Step (footwork), Slash (step cutting), Stamp (using crampons), Slide (self belay), Stop (ice axe arrest) if an effort to prevent Splat! The University's brief described how 'good mountaineers are in the right place at the right time and on their feet' - a perfect model for what we were trying to achieve. We continued up the ridge above the Twin Burns in glorious sunshine. The crags were in great condition and a strong team were on Daddy Longlegs (VIII 9). We continued across the plateau until we could descend an icy Goat Track which introduced the art of daggering.

Good technique for ice axe arrest although looking away from the adze would be better.

Putting it all in to practice to stop a tumbling backward slide

Perfect weather & perfect neve in Coire An Lochain!

Practicing American technique on crampons

Not an urban myth anymore - Raised ptarmigan footprints!

Typical Scottish winter mountaineering conditions!

Identifying a pocket of soft windslab as predicted by SAIS

Greg Boswell on Daddy Longlegs (VIII 9)

Another view of Greg Boswell on Daddy Longlegs (VIII 9)

Stunning rime ice crystals on the Cairngorm plateau

Group photo above Coire An Lochain

Descending an icy Goat Track into Coire an t-Sneachda

Friday night film - Skiing Everest

2012-01-13T17:00:00.000Z

Mountain Rescue Avalanche Training

2012-01-09T22:00:00.000Z

Wet snow avalanche at 300m on Blencathra from Dec 2011

Tonight I've been running an avalanche session for Langdale & Ambleside Mountain Rescue. The current trend is very much to move away from snow pit assessments taking a more holistic approach to gathering evidence and interpreting the risk. We covered an hours theory looking at UK and Lake District avalanches before heading out for a practical session. With no snow to be seen the transceiver search in the local park was a wee bit contrived but great fun under a full moon.

Honey Pot (IV 6)

2012-01-06T20:30:00.008Z

Campbell West starting out on pitch 2

High winds were forecast for midday today so we and many other teams opted for an early start to snatch a quick climb in the Northern Corries. There was a lot more snow in evidence as we walked in and the mixed routes looked to be well rimed. A weak ridge of high pressure gave great conditions but the gathering bad weather was always visible over our shoulders. We headed for the Mess of Pottage with designs on The Hybrid (IV 5) but it shares it's start with a number of other classic routes and there were already a number of teams in situe. We then turned our attentions to the Honey Pot (IV 6) which was climbed in two long pitches in good but time consuming conditions. The corries were busy with teams on Opening Break (IV 5), The Message (IV 6), Pot of Gold (V 6), Hidden Chimney Direct (IV 5), Jacob's Edge (II), The Grooved Rib (III 4), Crotched Gully (II) and Red Gully (II).

Walking in just after sunrise

The awkward moves at the start of pitch 1

Campbell pulling through the crux moves at the top of pitch 2

Friday night film - Sea Kayak

2012-01-06T17:00:00.000Z

Creagan Cha-No??

2012-01-05T16:57:00.006Z

Waiting for the snow gates to open!

We'll put today down to experience! There has been a lot of internet talk about the new developments at Creagan Cha-No, overlooking Strath Nethy, so John, Campbell and I headed over to have a look at this accessible single pitch winter crag. Despite claims to the contrary on the web it's a good 1h30 walk in. The approach is challenging in limited visibility so we opted for the GPS method which brought us neatly to the top of Anvil Buttress. Yesterdays lean experiences in Coire An t-Sneachda led us to believe there was limited snow cover even on lee slopes, however the top of our intended descent route, Recovery Gully, had a large cornice and was heavily loaded with soft slab. We had a brief look at abseiling down the line of Anvil Gully (IV 4) but with the crag being well buried under fresh snow and the weather worsening we opted to run away. The Northern Corries were still looking fairly lean but I guess we now know where all the new snow that fell last night has ended up!

Looking down the line of Anvil Gully (IV 4), named for the obvious block and a reasonable option for an abseil approach.

Time to run away for tea and medals!

Windfest in the Cairngorms

2012-01-04T19:19:00.007Z

Aladdin's Buttress in Coire An t-Sneachda

Today I headed east for a training day with Glenmore Lodge. The weather was forecast to worsen in the afternoon with the arrival of a front so we headed into Coire An t-Sneachda to have a look at conditions. The freezing level was just below the car park but followed us up in to the corrie. Compared to the west there was surprisingly little snow with a number of slopes scoured clear by the strong north westerly. The Northern Corries are becoming far busier and today was an opportunity to discuss alternative methods and areas for instructing in the area. There were a few teams out braving the conditions on the Message (IV 6), Droidless (VI 6), Red Gully (II), Crotched Gully (II) and the Runnel (II).

More snow on the Ben

2012-01-03T20:30:00.006Z

Digging snow holes just above the CIC Hut

For the second day of our course with Limerick University we opted to head up towards the CIC Hut below the north face of Ben Nevis. The weather forecast was particularly bad with the predicted strong winds and falling snow creating the potential for white out conditions. There was also a very significant avalanche risk on north through east facing slopes above 800m to deal with. However the weather turned out to be a lot better than anyone dared hope for and we spent a very pleasant day exploring the area around the base of the Douglas Boulder. Again we saw no evidence of any avalanche activity but teams in Glen Nevis reported a big slide on the approach to the Ring of Steele.

The rise and fall in temperature overnight had created a non weight bearing crust on the snow which made getting around hard work but this icy crust had also formed over the slabs above the CIC hut giving a great improvised surface on which to practice crampon technique. The second part of the day was spent looking at emergency snow shelters and snow holes in the large drifts that had formed in the stream bed.

There's a lot of snow being moved around at the moment meaning route choice is critical in the higher corries. Most tracks were getting filled in within the hour so there's also plenty of trail breaking to be done. Ice was starting to form on the Ben and many of the mixed routes looked like they were coming into condition although much of the buried turf will still be unfrozen. Elsewhere in Lochaber James Thacker managed to climb Ordinary Route (IV 5) in Stob Coire Nan Lochan after a roundabout approach to avoid the buried windslab.

North East Buttress area

The Douglas Boulder with a group from Abacus building belays at the base.

Carn Dearg, Ben Nevis

Emerging from a snow hole for the walk back down - into the wind!

A Snowy Start to 2012...

2012-01-02T20:10:00.006Z

Descending from NC Gully

My 2012 Scottish winter season started with a snow filled day in Glencoe. Reaching Coire Nan Lochain required negotiating waist deep drifts of new snow being blown around on strong south westerlies. I’m working with Max & Brian and students from the University of Limerick giving them an introduction to the delights of Scottish winter mountaineering.

It was raining as we left the car park but this soon changed to heavy snow which continued to fall throughout the day with an obvious cold front blowing through around 12 oclock. Conditions weren't ideal for introducing the use of crampons and ice axe but we perservered finding a steep wind scoured slope to practice good footwork and ice axe arrest. After a quick bite to eat we headed around the back of the corrie and soloed up the steeper left hand start of NC gully which provided an 'interesting' adventure, at times chest deep in snow while being battered by a continuous stream of spindrift from above! Crossing the shoulder we descended by the right hand start in knee deep snow.

One team retreated from the first pitch of Central Ordinary Route (IV 4) reporting unfrozen turf and spookily loose boulders. I expect the teams on Dorsal Arete found similar conditions on this notoriously unstable route but they all topped out without mishap.

In the shelter of the corrie there was surprisingly little windslab around with the snow pack being light and unconsolidated but folk on the ridges reported some big unstable looking cornices. There was no sign of any avalanche debris but the snow was still falling and being swept across the crags as we headed down . With a forecasted rise in temperature to above the summits in the early hours of tomorrow there should be plenty of avalanche activity to observe on the students second and final day with us.

Max's group below Central Buttress

The team in NC Gully

Traversing below the crags with SC Gully (III) prominent on the left

Friday night film - The Hurting

2011-12-30T17:00:00.001Z

Friday night film - Smith's Route

2011-12-23T17:00:00.001Z

Tour de Helvellyn

2011-12-17T22:10:00.001Z

Check point 3 with Stu Smith (photo from Nav4)

A great wee event organised by Joe Faulkner of Nav4 and now in it's second year, this 38 mile trail race with 2000m of ascent was the perfect preparation for a busy Christmas. Yet again the weather was ideal with plenty of challenging conditions underfoot but dry and cold with a fresh wind. Inov-8's Kim Collison had a storming run winning in an amazing time of 6:05. For the rest of us it was a great day out in the snow with the final runners coming in a just over 12 hours. The route starts in Askham before climbing over the moor to Howtown and onwards to Patterdale via Boredale Hause. The run then circumnavigates Helvellyn via Sticks Pass, Swirls, Dunmail Raise and Grisedale before retracing your steps to Askham. 95 runners enjoyed the experience and I bimbled round in 9:43 despite one rather large route choice error. (I took the description of a trail run rather literally from Patterdale ignoring the obvious large road which led to the next checkpoint!)

Friday night film - You Tube Epics...

2011-12-16T17:00:00.001Z

Lake District Round Up

2011-12-15T19:58:00.005Z

Climbing on Green Gable in Dec 2010

Another stunning day to be out in the hills with plenty of new snow being blown about on strong westerlies. The National Park Fell Top assessor reported thigh deep drifts just getting to Swirral Edge and yet again failed to make the summit! Over on High Street there was significantly less snow but getting anywhere still involved plenty of post holing.

There's been a number of teams out today with the high central venues providing the best entertainment. Climbs have included almost every route on Brown Cove Crags, Rape & Pillage V and Blade Runner IV on Helvellyn, Pendulum Ridge III on Scrubby Crag, Left Hand Route IV 5 on North Buttress / Cambridge Crag and Gully of the Plods II on Green Gable.

The general consensus is that much of the turf which is buried is still unfrozen but where it is exposed to the elements then it's in good condition and with careful route choice it's possible to minimise any damage to the fragile alpine ecosystem. There's limited ice for climbing with Blea Water Gill still flowing but there's plenty on the paths above 700m.

For the weekend it looks like we have bright but cold conditions with a few snow showers. The strong northerly wind will keep the temperature down even more but all the unconsolidated snow will increase the avalanche risk on southerly through to easterly aspects and in sheltered bowels and gully exits. There's been a number of big avalanches already in the past 10 days and climbers have been reporting plenty of spooky snow around. The gullies are going to need a good freeze thaw cycle to come into condition but many west and north facing buttress should be in excellent nick. Careful route choice will be needed and don't forget the approach, exit and descent.

Music for the Bob Graham Round

2011-12-15T09:00:00.002Z

71 miles down...

Tomorrow (16th December) Radio 4 focus their attentions on the Bob Graham Round. Italian composer Maurizio Malagnini has written a piece of music inspired by the Round which will be accompanied by thoughts and memories of those who have completed it. The program's broadcasting at 11am.

Lake District thaw...

2011-12-11T16:57:00.008Z

Roxy exploring a large soggy snow drift

The freezing level was well above the summits last night and we awoke to a major thaw. With no realistic options for ski touring or winter climbing the best idea was a wee fell run followed by coffee and Christmas shopping! We headed up onto the Grisedale Pike - Eel Crag - Barrow horseshoe to stretch our legs. There were some deep drifts of wet snow in the lee of the ridge but everything else had defrosted. Looking across to the west face of Raise there was very little snow cover where we had skied yesterday although the Raise web cam shows plenty of snow drifted in by the lift.

The descent from Eel Crag

A very bare looking Blencathra from the A66

Lakes Ski Touring

2011-12-10T17:35:00.007Z

After a good freeze last night, we opted to check out the touring conditions on the Helvellyn range. We were able to ski from the sheep fold at 480m on the Sticks Pass path from St John's In The Vale despite most west facing slopes having been scoured by the wind. Some careful route choice and we were soon up and over the col to the ski tow on the side of Raise where a band of volunteers were hard at work digging out the tow and generator shed from some deep drifts in the lee of the ridge. We traversed Raise before very lean conditions on Whiteside forced us to retrace our steps and skin up onto Stybarrow Dodd. By now the lift was running and around 20-30 skiers were enjoying some good snow. Our descent back towards Thirlmere had just enough snow to allow us to descend all the way back to the sheep fold. There were plenty of folk out today including a couple of other groups touring on skis plus plenty of fell runners recce-ing the route for next weekends Tour de Helvellyn, a 38 mile ultra.

Further north the high winds of the last few days have caused plenty of problems and now reports are coming in that the CIC Hut on Ben Nevis has lost its roof.

Friday night film - Vanishing Gully & Tower Ridge

2011-12-09T17:00:00.001Z

A blast along Sharp Edge

2011-12-09T16:55:00.000Z

Blencathra's Sharp Edge from Mountain Zac on Vimeo.

After the wind...

2011-12-09T16:07:00.007Z

A wet snow avalanche at 300m on Blencathra

After a wild and woolly couple of days the winds eased today as I headed up for a quick ascent of Sharp Edge on Blencathra. Within 5 minutes of leaving the car I came across the remains of a reasonably large wet snow avalanche (300m, easterly aspect) which had come down during the thaw yesterday. At the foot of the ridge any turf that was exposed was frozen but everything else vegetated has been insulated by the snow leaving it very prone to damage. The National Park are requesting that climbers don't climb the traditional gully lines until they are properly frozen meaning that it doesn't look like Helvellyn and Great End will be in condition for the weekend. However the rocky Sharp Edge offered good sport today. There was some ice and plenty of verglass meaning that crampons were essential. After topping out I descended by Halls Fell Ridge.

Another view of the avalanche debris which crossed the path

Plenty of grapnel being blow around in the strong westerly.

A partially frozen Scales Tarn

Busy on Halls Fell Ridge!

Lake District & Scotland Round up...

2011-12-06T19:21:00.004Z

Ski touring in the Cairngorms in similar snow conditions

There's been a few folk out and about in the Lakes having a look at the conditions. The National Park Fell Top Assessors are reporting plenty of soft snow above 300m on lee slopes. They also highlight the fact that very little of the underlying vegetation is frozen which means that there are very few options for winter climbing. Paddy Cave climbed Bowfell Butress V 5 yesterday, a predominately rock route which just needs a covering of snow to come in to condition while Woody was out looking for frozen turf on Wetherlam's Hen Crag Buttress. A better option today was ski touring with Paddy reporting good conditions on Raise. However there was also evidence of a couple of full depth avalanches.

Meanwhile up in a snowy Scotland there was plenty of action in the Cairngorms - Nom de Plume VI 7, Guillotine V 6 and Scorpion V 5 on Carn Etchachan all saw ascents and a team were seen tunneling their way up Deep Cut Chimney' IV,5 on Hells Lum. In 'Sneachda a team from Glenmore Lodge enjoyed Pot of Gold V 6.

Yesterdays successful Northern Corries action included Droidless VI 6, Pot of Gold V 6, The Message IV 6, Hidden Chimney Direct IV 5 and Stirling Bomber V 7 and over the back Sticil Face V 6 on the Shelterstone was also climbed.

Over on the west coast the big news was the second ascent of Defenders of the Faith IX 9, onsighted by Greg Boswell and Will Sim on the overhanging Creag an Socach.

A busy Sunday in the Northern Corries...

2011-12-04T20:22:00.002Z

Spindrift action from earlier this year

The Message IV 6, Wavelength III 4, Melting Pot V 6, Haston Line III 4, Hidden Chimney Direct IV 5, Crotched Gully II, The Genie V 7, The Seam IV 4, Invernookie, Central Left Hand II, Bulgy VII 7, Hoarmaster VI 6, Unamed Groove III, Origional Summer Route IV 5 - It was a busy old day in the Northern Corries.

Elsewhere Stairway to Heaven III on Beinn an Dothaidh and Tainted Elixir V 6 on Ben Cruachan both saw ascents this weekend.

Latest reports from Scotland...

2011-12-03T20:21:00.007Z

Mixed action from Jan 2011

As to be expected the Northern Corries were heaving today. Conditions were better than forecast and there were queues below some routes. Nocando Crack recieved only its 3rd ascent on Friday giving a solid VII 8. Today Hidden Chimney II/III, Seam-Stress IV 6, The Hsston Line III 4, The Seam IV 5, Fingers Ridge IV 4, Stirling Bomber V 7 and Invernookie were all climbed.

Over on the West Coast there's been a huge freeze thaw cycle following a week of snow. A few folk have broken trail in and teams were seen on No 3 Gully Buttress, the 2nd ascent of the Minge VII 8 on Trident Buttress, the Groove Climb V 6, Gutless IV 5 and Pinnacle Arete IV 4. The reliable Stob Coire Nan Lochan in Glencoe also gave a couple of routes including the classic Dorsal Arete II and Central Grooves VII 7.

The Scottish Avalanche Information Service haven't started their forecasts yet but there's been a number of avalanches reported already. On the Ben the areas below Trident Buttress and No 3 Gully are full of avalanche debris and the gully next to Great Slab in Coire an Lochain released in dramatic fashion giving a couple of climbers a wee dusting.

Friday night film - Cuillin in Winter

2011-12-02T17:00:00.001Z

Northern Corries still the place to be...

2011-12-01T18:44:00.001Z

Northern corries action from 2010.

Plenty of teams out in the Northern Corries again today. Reports suggested heavy rimming making progress slow and careful but there were plenty of routes climbed including Hoarmaster V 6, Overseer Direct V 6, Hookers Corner VI 6, Central Crack Route IV 5 and Third Man V 6. One team also made the trek over to Carn Etchachan to climb Equinox VI 6.

Lakes Winter Climbing Ethics

2011-12-01T10:52:00.005Z

Last nights BMC meeting in Staveley focused on the ethics of Winter Climbing in the Lake District. Following on from two incredible seasons there has been much vocal argument about what is acceptable and what direction our sport should take in the future.

Simon Webb from Nature England gave a very informative presentation on the effect of our actions on some of the very rare arctic plants which struggle to survive in the gullies and crags on which we pursue winter climbing. However the good news was that winter climbing on vegetated lines does very little damage if they are in condition ie the turf is frozen and not just snow covered. Simon's plea that we avoid climbing when the vegetation isn't frozen was met with plenty of support.

There was some discussion on the differences between dry tooling and mixed climbing. The difference was not as clear as some participants would have liked and the end result of damage to the rock from ice axe and crampons is very similar. Steve Ashworth noted that dry tooling was very much a underground activity in the Lakes and encouraged the BMC to look at developing guidelines and crags which I believe would help in educating climbers as to what is acceptable. Last winter two young climbers were photographed dry tooling on Millstone in the Peak District causing extensive damage to the thin crust characteristic of gritstone. Education has to be the key to preserving the limited amount of rock we have in the UK.

The main topic on which folk felt very strongly was the effect of winter climbing on classic rock routes. Bowfell Buttress in Langdale gives a classic VD in summer but has become polished from extensive traffic. In the last few years it has also become a very popular winter climb at grade V. It now sports a lot of superficial scratching which is visually intrusive in summer conditions but hasn't effected the actual climbing.

The size and frequency of the holds and protection on routes such as Bowfell Buttress and the Crack (VS) on Gimmer mean they will usually remain physically unscathed but visually damaged from the passage of winter climbers. Routes at these grades should still offer a similar experience to the summer rock climber regardless of whether they are climbed in winter. Interestingly 11 of the 16 Classic Rock routes in the Lakes have now received a winter ascent.

However the leading activists are getting stronger and are looking to push their boundaries. As they move on to harder classic routes the potential for significant damage is increased. Smaller holds and critical runner placements are more prone to damage from ice tools and crampons which could significantly alter the nature of the route in summer conditions. The explosion in climbing standards of the last few years has meant that more people now climb on the harder routes and understandably wish to test themselves on the published routes of the leading activists of our era. There is no easy answer to this natural progression with regards to the sustainability of our sport and to it's effects on other mountain users

Many people climb due to its lack of rules and regulations. Picking on one small part of the climbing world for the damage they do is to forget the side effects of many other aspects of our sport - polish, chalk, clearing of vegetation etc. However the actions of a few can and will have a negative effect on our mountain heritage and the enjoyment of others. Maybe we accept that routes will change, holds will break, placements will wear out, rockfalls will occur and in the grand scheme of things they matter very little compared to the natural erosion and that caused by walkers, mountain bikers and horse riders? Many of the rock routes at Millstone were formed by the extensive pegging of aid climbers. The mountain environment is always changing as are fashions in climbing. Or do we look at self regulation to protect the experience of the majority?

The latest Welsh winter climbing guide has taken the step of defining some routes and areas of crags as out of bounds in an effort to protect the classic rock routes. This would be a controversial step for the Lake District but would possibly help with the education of climbers. There would be no legal basis and climbers would still be free to climb where they wished, indeed some leading climbers have already indicated that they would ignore any effort to restrict where they climb, but it would have some influence on the majority.

There have been many controversies in climbing - bolts, chalk, aid, top roping. The climbing community has eventually self regulated itself with regards to these issues and I'm sure the same will happen here but they'll be plenty more 'positive discussions' until a consensus is reached! Until that time please only climb when routes are truly frozen and take responsibility for the effects of your actions.

Scottish season underway - just...

2011-11-30T21:26:00.000Z

Andy Nisbet in action from 2010

The first extensive snows of the season arrived in Scotland on the 25th November. They promptly briefly disappeared again but things are now looking a lot more wintery with snow down to 600m on the west coast. Darth Vader VII 8 on the Ben was climbed on the 27th and the last day of November was very productive in the Northern Corries. Stirling Bomber V 7, Fingers Ridge IV 4, Genie V 7, Fall Out Corner VI 7, Third Man V 6 and Overseer Direct V 6 all saw ascents from strong teams.

Scottish Winter Courses

2011-11-28T18:23:00.014Z

With the first significant snowfalls reported in Scotland we're gearing up for the winter season. I'll be out and about from the 2nd January to the end of March for winter skills, mountaineering, winter climbing and expedition training. Please have a look at www.mountain-zac.co.uk if you are interested in any instruction or guiding this winter. I'll also be keeping my usual blog updated with reports of conditions and recent ascents. Please enjoy the images from the last couple of incredible seasons and I'll see you on the hill.

Aclimatisation lectures

2011-11-28T18:00:00.003Z

Oxygen training on Cho Oyu

Today I've been lecturing on the demands of climbing at altitude at the University of Cumbria. As part of their Human Performance module the Outdoor Studies students are spending a few weeks looking at operating in extreme environments. Plenty of interest and there's certainly a few folk who'll be heading high for their next trip.

Friday night film - Self Rescue

2011-11-25T17:00:00.002Z

Nanda Devi & Panch Chuli Trek

2011-11-24T11:29:00.023Z

Nanda Devi & Nanda Devi East

I've just returned from a stunning trek in the foothills of Nanda Devi & Panch Chuli in the Indian Himalaya. Just a few of the photos of this amazing and very quiet region. In two weeks we didn't see another trekker.

Friday night film - Yosemite

2011-11-18T17:00:00.000Z

On Assignment from Camp 4 Collective on Vimeo.

Friday night film - MTB

2011-11-11T11:11:00.000Z

Friday night film

2011-11-04T17:00:00.000Z

THE CHOSEN PREMIERE from Nike 6.0 on Vimeo.

Nanda Devi Trek

2011-10-29T17:00:00.006+01:00

Markha Valley trekking from 2008

I'm currently on my way to India to explore the region around Nanda Devi and Panchchuli for a few weeks. Looks like a stunning trek and hoping to do some scouting for a suitable unclimbed objective for an expedition in the next couple of years..... The photos are from my only other trip to India to trek in the Markha Valley of Ladakh and climb Stok Kangri.

An oasis in the barren Ladakh landscape

Descending from the summit of Stok Kangri

Friday night film - Meru's Fin

2011-10-28T17:00:00.003+01:00

Friday night film - Scottish Whitewater

2011-10-21T17:00:00.003+01:00

Windermere Canoe Bivi

2011-10-14T18:30:00.007+01:00

Passing Brockhole on Windermere

I've again spent a couple of days canoeing on Windermere with University of Cumbria students. The forecast was far better than this time last week and we were able to paddle from the northern end of the lake to our bivi site 9km away. Despite a last minute capsize soaking our wood supply we were able to get a good blaze going in the fire box and enjoyed a comfortable and dry night out. Falling acorns were an ever present hazard but some of the students got a solid 12 hours sleep! The following morning we swapped boats with the sea kayakers and headed back to Ambleside under low cloud but without a breath of wind.

Important navigation as there are limited places to land on Windermere.

A bivi for thirteen!

A bivi for one with a view

Exploring some of Windermere's flooded islands

Friday night film - Norway Water

2011-10-14T17:00:00.002+01:00

Wild & Woolly Canoe Bivi on Windermere

2011-10-07T20:05:00.007+01:00

Enjoying the best of the Lake District!

I'm currently working for the University of Cumbria with students on the Outdoor Education & Leadership courses. Today's canoe journey and bivi on Windermere was a new experience for most of the group. With the wind gusting F4-5 paddling conditions were always going to be challenging so we opted to launch from the southern end of the lake and hug the western shore. The wind was whipping the water up from the surface of the lake and one boat was blown over in a heavy squall less than 10 minutes from camp. With the occupants safely back on board and their equipment retrieved we headed to the shore and set about building some weatherproof bivis. The other group of sea kayakers eventually arrived after a fairly epic journey in the conditions and also worked hard to make themselves comfortable. A tarp as a roof and a good fire in the fire box and things feel a lot better. After a good nights sleep day two dawned a lot clearer and brighter and with the wind behind us we had a pleasant paddle back to our starting point.

Sun light following another squall

Home for the night

Far better conditions for the second days paddle home

Friday night film - The Epic Tri

2011-10-07T17:00:00.003+01:00

Final Day on Shepherd's Crag

2011-10-01T19:30:00.004+01:00

Focused on the traverse of Ardus (HS)

After a demanding week of ticking some of the Lake Districts Classic rock routes we opted for the short walk in and cafe of Shepherds Crag in Borrowdale. The rock was dry and we quickly cruised up Ardus (HS), Eve (VS), Little Chamonix (VD) and Donkey's Ears (D).
This week I have been working for Adventure Peaks.

The exposed traverse of Eve (VS)

The crux of the easy classic Donkey's Ears (D)

Evidence of rock fall at Shepherd's Crag - been here years and the tree is now growing around the boulder.

Indian Summer on Gillercombe Buttress

2011-09-30T17:03:00.004+01:00

Dry rock for a change on Gillercombe Buttress (S)

This week I've been working for Adventure Peaks

Friday night film - Alex Honnold Solo

2011-09-30T17:00:00.003+01:00

Pillar's New West Climb

2011-09-29T21:34:00.006+01:00

Today I was working for Adventure Peaks.

A sunny Bowfell Buttress

2011-09-28T21:33:00.007+01:00

Today I've been working for Adventure Peaks.

50,000 Blog Visits - Thank you!

2011-09-27T21:22:00.002+01:00

My blog has just passed a major milestone with 50,000 visits since May 2009. The peak was in May 2011 with nearly 9000 visits in a month during my jaunt to the summit of Everest! Thank you to everyone who has viewed this site and I hope you've found it inspiring and or useful!
Blue skies

Gale Force Winds on Tophet Wall

2011-09-27T19:55:00.006+01:00

Patricia arriving at the 2nd stance on Tophet Wall (HS)

This week I'm working for Adventure Peaks with Patricia for her regular fix of Lake District rock. The brief for the week was Classic and Hard Rock routes so with blue skies in the North Lakes we took a chance on the weather and headed up to Tophet Wall (HS) on Great Gable. Arriving at the base of the route in just a t-shirt the cloud level was still above the crag and we were reasonably sheltered from the strong south westerly. The rock was still dry to touch but as we climbed the cloud came down to meet us and the wind increased giving very atmospheric and challenging conditions. Slow progress and a rather damp looking forth pitch prompted us to escape by abseil back into the gully. Rope management was interesting as the increasingly strong updraft frequently hurled our ab ropes back up the crag!

Patricia eying up the moves to the 3rd stance

My abseil ropes going horizontal across the crag!

Troutdale Pinnacle

2011-09-26T19:54:00.011+01:00

Sue enjoying the sun on Troutdale Pinnacle

For the last couple of days I've been climbing with Sue & Jude. Today's was Troutdale Pinnacle (S) in Borrowdale, a route with a big reputation in their climbing circle. Conditions were far better than last week and there were just a couple of wet streaks to avoid. The sun arrived as we climbed the pinnacle giving a very pleasant finish. With plenty of energy left we avoided Shepherds Cafe and the ladies swung leads up Jackdaw Ridge on Shepherds Crag

Jude waiting for the sun to arrive on the 2nd pitch!

Sue approaching the belay on the 2nd pitch

The exposed slab leading to the pinnacle

Sue drying out on top of Troutdale Pinnacle

Jude accepting the challenge of standing on the end of the pinnacle

Sue leading Jackdaw Ridge on Shepherds Crag

Gimmer Crag to Ourselves...

2011-09-25T19:54:00.002+01:00

More Classic but Wet Rock

2011-09-24T19:49:00.004+01:00

Sue enjoying good holds on the wet rock

For the next three days I'm climbing with regulars Sue & Jude. The forecast was improving but rain was still falling as we headed up to Corvous (D) in Borrowdale. They'd both climbed it 12 years ago and had great memories of the experience. A couple of other teams were also heading for this classic wet weather climb so we switched our attentions to Raven Crag Gully (VD). After one pitch of extremely greasy bridging in a chimney we agreed this was meant to be fun so abbed off and headed back round to the clean rock of Corvous! The rain stopped as we topped out and we had a very pleasant walk back to the car.

Jude on the classic hand traverse pitch

Friday night film - Sport v Trad

2011-09-23T17:00:00.003+01:00

Lakeland Classic Rock Routes

2011-09-20T19:34:00.007+01:00

Traversing below the pinnacle on a very wet Troutdale Pinnacle (S)

Fancying a challenge acrobats Jane and Lisa headed north to enjoy an 'Indian summer' in the Lakes attempting to climb the 15 Classic Rock routes from Ken Wilson's stunning coffee table book. An ambitious itinerary involved some 45 miles of hill walking and plenty of four star climbing over 3 long days. Sunday morning saw us at Shepherds Crag in Borrowdale climbing the classic Little Chamonix (VD) as the sun burnt the mist off Derwent Water. Our next route Troutdale Pinnacle (S) at Black Crag was rather wet with a waterfall running down the crux pitch which slowed us significantly but perfect timing saw us back at the bags as the rain arrived. The forecast for the beginning of the week was pretty bad but spirits were still high as we set up for the trek up to Gillercombe Buttress (S). The rain soon cleared and we enjoyed plenty of sunshine as far as the base of the route. Greasy rock again slowed us and darkness and torrential arrived together two pitches from the top. We made a quick decision to bail and one long and wet 60m abseil took us down into the gully and an easy scramble down to the bags. A sheltered campsite was quickly found on the valley floor and we settled in for the night.

The next morning gave blue skies and light winds. We opted to miss out the routes on Pillar and traversed over Green Gable aiming for Napes Needle (HS), Needle Ridge (VD) and Tophet Wall (S). However by the time we reached Sty Head Tarn an unrelenting wind was driving heavy rain down the valley and we ended up retreating to Langdale for hot chocolates in front of the fire in the Old Dungeon Ghyll.

The forecast for the Tuesday was far better so we headed back round to the quick drying Shepherds Crag to get some climbing done. We made quick work of Donkey's Ears (), Eve (VS), Kransic Crack Direct (HVS), ?? () and The Grasp (E1) before retreating to the cafe. Bacon sarnies and hot chocolate arrived just before the only shower of the day signifying the end of a very adventurous 3 days.

Enjoying the exposure from Troutdale Pinnacle (S)

The unique Donkey's Ears on Shepherds Crag

Entertaining the locals at Shepherds Cafe!

Three Shire Fell Race

2011-09-17T19:30:00.029+01:00

John Helme & Carl Bell vying for the lead

The fifth race in the Lakeland Classics trophy is the Three Shires Fell race. Opting not to race I headed out into the persistent rain in support mode. Despite a large number of photographers none of the runners opted to ford the waist deep river just after the start so I headed up on to Lingmoor to get some photos.

Steve Birkinshaw in 8th place

Andy Thompson of Eden Runners

Leading women Hazel Robinson

Keswick AC's Julie Carter in 3rd place

Wendy Dodds chasing hard in 4th position

The crowd going wild!

Friday night film - Arctic Light

2011-09-16T17:00:00.000+01:00

The Arctic Light from TSO Photography on Vimeo.

Friday night film - Aurora

2011-09-09T17:00:00.000+01:00

The Aurora from TSO Photography on Vimeo.

Terrex Sting in Stirling 2012 Preview

2011-09-04T11:59:00.002+01:00

Friday night film - Mountain light

2011-09-02T17:00:00.000+01:00

The Mountain from TSO Photography on Vimeo.

Adidas Terrex C2C 2011 Report

2011-08-30T11:48:00.014+01:00

Setting off for the long paddle down Ullswater

Knowing I'd be looking for a new challenge after this years Everest expedition and having bumped in to several teams in various states of disrepair on the 2010 expedition race I signed up to race as a solo in this years Adidas Terrex C2C Adventure Race. Finishing a tough weeks work with Outward Bound at 9pm on the Thursday and having spent Wednesday night camped out with a group I packed by headtorch until 1am, got a few hours kip and headed down to Whitehaven for a nice early start!

Film of day 1 courtesy of Ian Grimshaw

Conditions were perfect and there was a great buzz around the harbor. I had sourced a 25kg plastic touring kayak a couple of days before the race so I was always going to be slow on the paddling stages but at least I wasn't going to end up in the water like a number of teams in their unstable racing skis. A small break at St Bees was providing plenty of entertainment but I picked a good wave onto the beach and made a dry exit. Onto the bike for the ride over to Crummock Water and the second paddling stage. The portage between the two lakes was always going to be a sufferfest but I got the boat comfortable on my shoulder and was able to pick up a couple of places on the rocky west shore path. From Buttermere the big climb of the day led up on to Robinson. With no other teams in view and following the race line marked on the map I missed the obvious trod which gave a far easier line on to the ridge. The teams behind me made no mistake and we were soon running as a pack along the ridge. The great undulating descent over Catbells played to my strengths and I arrived at Nicol End feeling pretty good. However in common with many of the other racers the exit from the water after the 500m swim in Derwentwater proved problematical with cramp in both legs! Getting my trainers on for the run in to Keswick town center was a long process but once I got moving things eased up and I even managed a sprint finish.

Slow & steady transitions!

Staggered starts the next morning meant I left around half way down the field for the quick spin up to Thirlmere. At half my size and weight Carrie had done a sterling job to get my heavy boat over the gate and down the bank to the water. Thirlmere was mirror smooth and a great paddle enlivened by an exit through knee deep mud. The second big climb of the race was up on to Helvellyn. However my tracker was spotted doing 60mph via Ambleside so I didn't win King of the Mountains! After a great run down Swirral Edge and down to Patterdale I was reunited with my tracker and could begin the long paddle the length of Ullswater. Putting in a big effort I was able to hold my position until in a flurry of activity all the leading teams came past me at Pooley Bridge. The final section of the day was open route choice to Kirby Stephen. Running pure slicks on my mountain bike worked very well apart from the initial off road section to Askham which generated a few hairy moments.

The exit from Buttermere - too tired to carry the boat after the long portage!

Day 3 was all new to me with a boggy run over Nine Standards. An unplanned detour on the way up saw me scaling a tree to cross a huge wall. Once back on route I was able to enjoy the long descent despite going over on my ankle. The final sprint finish also nearly did for me with a very slippery stile but with just a couple more bruises to add to the collection we were out on to the mountain bikes and my favorite part of the journey. Apart from one long push the majority of the climbing was rideable followed by some great flowing downhill. Most of the leaders, followed by their ever attentive helicopter, came past at this stage but I was still ahead of Team Adidas Terrex at the final transition. A quick change of tyres and a blast along the roads to Northallerton on some particularly filthy bikes.

Finishing day 3 in Northallerton

The final day of the race involved a very early start but the staggered starts worked incredibly well with everyone reaching the finish within a three hour window giving a great atmosphere. An initial leg on the bike led us on to a great run along the Cleveland Way. Clear cold conditions with a fresh breeze and purple heather as far as you could see. A steep downhill to the next transition where we picked up mountain bikes before climbing all the way back on to the ridge for the next stage. The riding was less technical today but I was still able to overtake the two leading teams, Accelerate and Adidas Terrex for a brief moment when things got a bit tricky. Tracking Kim Collison in third place he punctured but made a quick change and was soon disappearing into the distance again taking one of my spare inner tubes with him. Just before the final transition I wandered slightly off the racing line taking an alternative line through a large puddle at speed. With water over the hubs I emerged like a drowned rat to much amusement of the team just behind. However with the sun still shining I quickly dried out and began the final section. Opting for knobbly tyres over pure slicks was a good choice as stage 17 was a combination of tarmac and cinder track. With everyone pushing hard for the finish a number of peletons formed and reformed as the north sea finally came in to view. Dropping the bikes at the edge of Robin Hood's Bay we made a final short run down to the finish line just above the sea.

Sprint finish at Robin Hood's Bay and the end of the race

A great first experience of Adventure Racing and a massive thank you to James and everyone at Open Adventure for putting on such a great and well organised event. Huge thanks also to my support team of Ian Grimshaw & Carrie Gibson who didn't put a foot wrong the whole race and were a massive part of me getting round in a reasonable time.

Happy with 13th place in 27:31:04

Plenty more reports on the Terrex C2C 2011...

A quick dip in the North sea to complete the Coast to Coast

Terrex C2C - Day 4

2011-08-29T23:00:00.003+01:00

An early start in Northallerton for Day 4 (photo from Plane tfear.com)

Finish of the Terrex C2C 2011 with my awesome support Carrie

Terrex C2C - Day 3

2011-08-28T23:00:00.001+01:00

Just been overtaken by James Cracknall & Team Adidas

Terrex C2C - Day 2

2011-08-27T23:00:00.003+01:00

My one bit of television fame. I'm the figure in the cloud at 1:20!

Terrex C2C - Day 1 (the official version!)

2011-08-26T23:00:00.003+01:00

The start of the paddle down Crummock Water just before the heavy squall hit!

Terrex C2C - Day 1

2011-08-26T22:30:00.000+01:00

I was very ably supported on day 1 of the Terrex C2C by Ian (Antarctic decorator, extreme skier and self proclaimed Greek god!). In between sorting my kit, thrashing my wee van round the countryside and keeping me fed and watered he managed to shoot this film of my efforts. Thanks for not making me look too bad!

Friday night film - The Tooth Traverse

2011-08-26T17:00:00.001+01:00

The Tooth Traverse from Camp 4 Collective on Vimeo.

Terrex C2C Adventure Race

2011-08-25T19:10:00.000+01:00

This bank holiday weekend is the Terrex C2C Adventure Race . My preparation hasn't been ideal with a full week at Outward Bound Ullswater but it's shaping up to be a great race if a wee bit wet and windy!

Each team carries a tracker and their progress can be followed here http://www.adidas-ar.com/2011/tracking/tracks.php. I'm racing as Solo 19.

Day 1 (Friday, 10am start)

Sea kayak from Whitehaven to St Bees
Cycle to Loweswater
Kayak Crummock Water & Buttermere
Fell run along Robinson & Cat Bells
Swim across Derwent Water

Day 2 (Saturday)

Cycle to Thirlmere
Kayak the length of Thirlmere
Fell run over Helvellyn via Swirral Edge to Patterdale
Kayak the length of Ullswater
Cycle to Kirkby Stephen

Day 3 (Sunday)

Fell run over Nine Standards Rigg
Mountain bike through Swaledale
Cycle through the Vale of York to Northallerton

Day 4 (Monday)

Continue to cycle through the Vale of York
Fell run over Carlton Bank
Mountain bike over the North York Moors
Cycle through the Esk Valley to Robin Hood's Bay

A few other links which will have updates and photos are below;

Facebook https://www.facebook.com/openadventure.
Twitter http://twitter.com/#!/openadventure.
James Cracknell Blog http://www.jamescracknell.com/home

Big thanks to everyone who's got me to the start line - Sarah, Ian, Anna, Carrie, Tim, Craig, Carl & Jo

Chris Walker Memorial Trust

2011-08-25T19:00:00.002+01:00

'The Chris Walker Memorial Trust has been set up to remember Chris Walker who lost his life on Wednesday 24th Feb, 2010 when he was taken by an avalanche over steep ground, whilst descending from Buachaille Etive Mor. The trust has been set up to help others who share the same passion for the mountains as Chris.

The Trust will award an annual £1000 grant to help fund expeditions to the Greater Ranges. They welcome applications from aspiring Greater Ranges climbers who need help to fund expeditions with the objective of establishing new routes, repeating rarely attempted lines, or visiting unexplored areas.

The Trust will also provide assistance to candidates who are undertaking the British Mountain Guides scheme. This will be in the form of a £200 per candidate reduction on the avalanche training part of the guides scheme each year. The Trust will work directly with the British Mountain Guides association to give this reduction.

In the last couple of years of his life, Chris developed a real passion for skiing, especially off-piste. He attended a couple of courses run by the British Alpine Ski School (BASS) and to ensure Chris’s passion for skiing is still felt on these courses, and to assist individuals with similar aspirations to Chris, BASS are offering annually a free place on their ‘Ski Performance Course for Mountaineers’.

www.chriswalkertrust.co.uk

The Challenge at Outward Bound

2011-08-25T17:45:00.004+01:00

A stunning morning camped at Red Tarn below Helvellyn

I have just completed my forth week working for Outward Bound on The Challenge. This flagship program for school leavers is expanding widely next year after a very successful summer (and in view of the recent riots). Last week PM David Cameron and the local MP Rory Stewart were at OB Howtown joing in with a group building and sailing a raft on Ullswater and this week we had a BBC Newsnight film crew in. Another very positive course which challenged the youngsters views on life and developed bonds across various groups in their neighborhood.

A soggy group make their way back off a demanding expedition

Bill Gates' (founder of Microsoft) take on personal development....Defiantly something we can all use here!

Life is not fair; get used to it.
The world won't care about your self-esteem. The world will expect you to accomplish something before you feel good about yourself.
You will not make £100,000 a year right out of school.
If you think your teacher is tough, wait till you get a boss. He doesn't have tenure.
Flipping burgers is not beneath your dignity. Your grandparents had a different word for burger flipping; they called it opportunity.
If you mess up, it's not your parents' fault, so don't whine about your mistakes, learn from them.
Before you were born, your parents weren't as boring as they are now. They got that way from paying your bills, cleaning your clothes and listening to you talk about how cool you are. So before you save the rain forest from the parasites of your parents' generation, try "delousing" the cuboard in your own room.
Your school may have done away with winners and losers, but life has not. In some schools they have abolished failing grades; they'll give you as many times as you want to get the right answer. This doesn't bear the slightest resemblance to anything in real life.
Life is not divided into terms. You don't get summers off and very few employers are interested in helping you find yourself. Do that in your own time.
Television is not real life. In real life people actually have to leave the coffee shop and go to jobs.
Be nice to nerds. Chances are you'll end up working for one.

ML Expedition

2011-08-19T19:10:00.004+01:00

Sunset over Swirl How from our first camp at Red Tarn

For the past 3 days I've been working on an ML assessment expedition in the central fells of the Lake District for Apex. The weather was incredibly kind with just a couple of periods of heavy rain to keep us on our toes. With perfect visibility the emphasis was on some challenging night navigation on both nights. Stood on the top of Bowfell at two in the morning with a cloud inversion forming in Langdale and across Windermere was pretty special. Temperatures were defiantly dropping and there was more than a hint of autumn in the air. A huge well done to everyone on the assessment.

Sunrise and the remains of the cloud inversion from Three Tarns

Friday night film - Blob jumping!

2011-08-19T17:00:00.001+01:00

ML Steep Ground Day

2011-08-16T22:40:00.005+01:00

Day two of Apex's ML Assessment focused on the skills required to manage groups on steep terrain. Today's synoptic chart gave a very depressing picture with two slow moving occluded fronts giving constant rain and some pretty windy conditions. Nevertheless we set out for the slopes above Goats Water which required the full repertoire of spotting, coaching, confidence roping, abseiling and pitching to safeguard the group in some pretty horrendous conditions.

ML Assessment

2011-08-15T22:21:00.005+01:00

This week I'm assessing on a ML Summer course for Apex. A few showers blew through but generally the day was bright and breezy as we challenged the groups navigation around Coniston Old Man. Finding ring contours and re-entrants takes you into some unusual places well off the beaten track and we found the remains of one of the engines from the Great Carrs aircrash. Following one leat clearly marked on the map we found it abruptly disappeared into some mine workings necessitating a quick reevaluation of their navigation strategy!