One year ago today...

 

 Above the second step on the North Ridge of Everest

 

  Top of the world!

 

Good memories

Friday night film - Everest

Review - TNF Alpine Project Wind Jacket

Evening session on the Langdale Boulders

For the last few weeks I've been testing a new jacket from The North Face, the innovative Alpine Project Wind Jacket and after a dubious start it's really grown on me. At first glance I struggled to identify where it would fit in to my clothing system. Was it a soft shell, an insulated jacket without the insulation or a heavy weight windproof. The best description is probably all of the above as it's one of those pieces of kit that just seems to work. I must admit I've been using this jacket for a number of activities that probably exceed what the designers had in mind for it but layered over a thin thermal it's kept me comfortable fell running, bouldering, mountain biking, climbing, scrambling, hill walking, road biking, marshaling on a mountain challenge and even a photo shoot for Trail Running magazine.

The North Face Alpine Project Wind Jacket

£100.00, 350grams

'Rage against the wind in The North Face Men’s Alpine Project Wind Jacket a new pull-over anorak styled, hooded nylon micro ripstop mountain shell. Coated with a DWR water shedding finish. This wind shell has map accommodating twin alpine pockets and a chest pocket that’s handy for a compass, phone or gps device. The hood adjusts at the back. Simple and rugged ,The Men’s Alpine Project Wind Jacket offers effective wind shell performance as one would expect from a technical, athlete test Summit Series™ jacket.'

Designed as a technical and durable windproof it has proved surprisingly waterproof when caught out by yet another shower at the start of our traditional Lakeland summer. I would still carry a lightweight waterproof with a bad forecast but generally I've been very happy to use this as my shell. The double layer of ripstop nylon has proved very successful at blocking everything the elements can throw at me. There is an extra layer of insulation over the torso provided by an internal thin fleece scrim. However this doesn't extend down the arms which means the jacket doesn't bind when you're trying to put it on over a damp thermal, a great design feature which really makes a practical difference on the hill. 

The jackets hood is one of its best features. It's a great fit, feeling comfortable, unrestrictive and turns with your head but offers far more protection than many other wind proofs. The slightly stiffened peak sits just in the right place to deflect the worst of the weather but doesn't restrict your vision. The only adjustment on the whole jacket is a cord at the back that clinches the hood in snug to your head. This also means there are no toggles to whip you in the face. However the price you pay for such a well fitting hood is that it won't fit over a climbing helmet.

Having raved about the hood there are however a couple of significant niggles. There is no way to secure the hood when it’s not in use which means it flaps around in a very annoying manner. Then if you place anything in the chest pocket while the front zip is open then there is a tendency for the hood to be pulled around to the left ending up perched on your shoulder. A simple Velcro strap would transform this jacket for faster paced activities. The second hood issue occurs only with a following wind when the drumming of the fabric over your ears drowns out any other sound (rockfall, climbing partners etc). I suspect this is due to the lightness of the nylon fabric and or the lack of hood adjustment but for whatever reason this is probably the biggest weakness of the jacket. Some reinforcing over the ears or an adjustable draw cord may go some way to helping prevent this?

Summit of Ben Nevis

The rest of the jacket gives a very roomy and comfortable fit. There were plenty of venting options with a long front zip and the lycra bound cuffs could easily be pulled up to your elbows. I get the feeling it would have been brilliant for last months ski touring trip to the Vanoise. The extra water repellancy would have been ideal for my frequent crashes!

Tunnel pockets used to be very popular in outdoor clothing but have pretty much disappeared from use. Here they work extremely well giving loads of room which is accessible while wearing a harness and having a deep lip to help prevent items from escaping if you forget to zip the pocket up. The chest pocket is small but will take a smart phone or compass.

 A chilly evening on the Langdale Boulders

For me this jacket makes a great multipitch cragging top offering lightweight insulation and weatherproofing. A couple of sessions on the very rough gabbro of the Carrick Fell boulders has failed to inflict any damage on the surprisingly tough lightweight fabrics. The jacket is designed to stuff into it's own pocket however one minor design flaw is the lack of an internal loop for attaching it to the back of your climbing harness.

After my initial confusion I think this jacket has identified it's niche offering a weather resistant shell that's just that bit more practical for UK conditions than a traditional soft shell and compliments my existing system of thermals, Primaloft insulation and hard shell waterproofs. A wee bit of fine tuning and this could become a classic multi activity jacket.

 

Between the showers in Langdale

Friday night film - Everest

Everest on Discovery

 

Geordie arriving at Camp 2 (7800m)

Tonight the Discovery Channel is showing 'The Ultimate Climb' which follows Geordie Stewart's successful attempt to climb the 7 Summits culminating on Everest with me in 2011. There's a few trailers on the Discovery web site. Starring roles for Greg and Jaysen as well.

  

Geordie reaching 7500m on our final acclimatisation

MountainZ Photography

Topping out on Green Gable (BMC Summit magazine)

I've been working hard at my photography over the last few years, often in some pretty amazing environments and the results have been slowly improving. In the last year my images have been used by the Discovery Channel, the British Mountaineering Council, local press and Adventure Peaks. There's plenty more of my work on Flickr.

Geordie Stewart reaching Camp 2 on Everest (Discovery Channel)

Above the Second Step on the North Ridge of Everest (Adventure Peaks)

 

 Summit of Mount Everest (Westmoreland Gazette & Andover Advertiser)

  Descending from Camp 1 on Mt Vinson, Antarctica (Adventure Peaks)

The last few meters to the summit of Mt Vinson (Adventure Peaks)

 

 Summit of Mt Vinson, Antarctica (Adventure Peaks)

 

Walking in to Aconcagua (Adventure Peaks)

Summit of Cho Oyu 8201m (Adventure Peaks)

 

 Team photo on the summit of Cho Oyu (Adventure Peaks)

Descending from the summit of Stok Kangri (Adventure Peaks)

Fitting crampons on a winter skills course (BMC Summit magazine)

Practicing ice axe arrest (BMC Summit magazine)

Abseiling off Kern Knotts (Adventure Peaks)

Climbing Innominate Crack, Kern Knotts (Adventure Peaks)

Bucket seat belay in Scotland (Adventure Peaks)

Climbing Smith's Route, Ben Nevis (Adventure Peaks)

 

 Glacier training below Khan Tengri, Kyrgyzstan (Adventure Peaks)

Climbing Pk Chapeyev, Kyrgyzstan (Adventure Peaks)

Summit of Pk Chapeyev with Khan Tengri in the background (Adventure Peaks)

Trail Running photoshoot

Cumbrian light

Today I've been out on a photo shoot for an article I'm writing for Trail Running magazine. Clare, Ben and I took a trot over Walla Crag and back through the woods pursued by photographer Stuart Holmes. Lots of short sharp sprints for the camera and looks like we got some great images. Heading home a chance encounter with friends resulted in me signing up for the Latrigg Fell race, a short up and down blast from Fitz Park in Keswick. Having been focusing on endurance for events later in the year I was very please to get round in 25:22 and 34th place.

Imperial Trans Antarctic Centenary Expedition

Hauling pulks in Antarctica

Big plans for 2014. After a wet weekend dragging tyres on Dartmoor. I've been selected for a place on the Imperial Trans Antarctic Centenary Expedition 2014.  An ambitious expedition to attempt a crossing of Antarctica via Shackleton's proposed 1914 route.

From the expedition website;
When it comes to celebrating the human spirit, 2014 is going to be a special year. August 2014 will mark exactly 100 years since Sir Ernest Shackleton KCVO and his extraordinary team set out on one of the biggest and most ambitious polar journeys ever attempted.In 1914, as war clouds gathered over Europe, Shackleton was laying plans for an epic expedition; the first ever trek across the Antarctic continent, travelling 1800 miles from sea to sea. He intended to sail through the uncharted waters of the Weddell Sea to Vahsel Bay before trekking by foot towards the geographic South Pole. From there his team would proceed towards the Ross Sea, destined for a rendezvous with their ship and victory.Unfortunately disaster struck and Shackleton’s ship was crushed by sea ice, leaving his team stranded in the freezing wilderness.  By saving the lives of all 28 of his men, Shackleton’s leadership and survival skills have become the stuff of legend, but his intended course across the Antarctic continent remains uncompleted. Until now.

With the patronage of Shackleton’s granddaughter the Honourable Alexandra Shackleton behind us, in 2014 we plan to tread in the great explorer’s intended footsteps, realising his polar ambition and capturing his spirit of adventure for the 21st century. It will be the first time Shackleton’s route will have been attempted– honouring and celebrating just what it takes to push the limits of human possibility. 

 Lots of training, preperation and fundraising in store for the next couple of years. Please have a look at the expedition website www.south2014.com. and support us in any way you can.

Friday night film - Yukon Arctic Ultra

The North Face

I've just taken delivery of my first box of goodies from The North Face. Over the next few months I've been given the opportunity to put some of their current and future technical clothing through its paces and write some independent reviews as part of their ongoing development program. I'm afraid it's all already in the washing machine after todays mud and rain but initial impressions are very good. The next few months are looking busy; working on the Cuillin Ridge, Terrex Swift Adventure Race, mountain work in the Lake District, The Celtman Tri, climbing in the Alps, Lakeland 100 and an expedition to Greenland!  A perfect testing program!